วันอังคารที่ 31 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Dog training.....Introduce Stairs

.. Introduce stairs to puppies so they will adjust quickly to the new experience ...Training a puppy to climb stairs, to socialize with other animals or people, ..

Many puppies are thrown off by stairs:their eyes can’t make sense of the depth and angle. Although it is tempt- ing to soothe and carry your puppy, resist this habit. It will only teach him to be helpless. Instead, encourage a
can-do mentality.

Stairs

1 With a helper and some treats, approach the stairs with your puppy in your arms.
Carry him to the third step from the top or bottom. Place him down gently.
2 Without talking, support your puppy’s rib cage to alleviate his fear of falling.
3 Have your helper stand at the top or bottom of the stairs and excite your puppy with food or toys. If your puppy is frozen with fear, use your hands to
guide him through the motion of walking the steps.
4 Repeat this process again and again, gradually increasing the number of steps your puppy must tackle. Look at him, talk to him, and praise him when
he accomplishes this task, not when he avoids it!

Leash Training Dogs

..Complete dog house training, dog leash training and dog care resource site. ...Learn to train your dog or puppy to walk on leash...

Quote :http://www.thedogtrainingsecret.com

Training your dog to walk appropriately on a leash can be one of the most frustrating aspects of good dog training, but no one wants to be pushed, pulled or yanked towards other dogs or into traffic (both of these actually happened to me once before I became a dog trainer)! Simply Dog Pulling Leashteaching your dog good leash manners will keep you and your dog safe while you are out walking!

Most people try to leash train their dogs on their own, but usually they end up making the problem worse and both dog and owner end up frustrated and confused. The problem is that they are relying on Choke Chains and Prong Collars, and although these barbaric tools may work in short term owners find out they have absolutely NO control without the collars!

Punishment and pain can also lead to an escalation of bad behavior and in some cases even aggression toward the owner. I believe all dog should be trained well enough to be walked on a buckle collar or harness alone, no dog training collar to over-use or rely on!

HOW?Positive Reinforcement Training

Positive reinforcement refers to operant conditioning, and I won’t bore you with the details right now, but suffice it to say B.F. Skinner one of the leading researchers on reinforcement found that positive reinforcement is superior to punishment in altering behavior because positive reinforcement results in lasting behavioral modification and punishment changes behavior only temporarily and presents many detrimental side effects.

Does that sound familiar? The problem behavior changes temporarily, it will y reappear later, and it comes with even more problem behavior!

Positive reinforcement training is what exotic animal trainers have used for years to teach dolphins, whales and large cats among other animals. You cannot force a dolphin to do what it does not want to do!

This type of training is more effective because it builds a bond of trust and cooperation between animals and human, the animals (and the human) actually look forward to training!

No one looks forward to punishment, or even the probability of punishment! We all want to be told when we do something right, not belittled, hit or corrected when we do something wrong!


Clicker Training
The clicker is a tool, that when conditioned with food, a treat or a toy signals to your dog when he is doing something right. The Clickerclicking sound becomes synonymous with the treat once training has begun. However, your dog has to be taught that the clicker means something, clicking alone is not reinforcing, you must teach your dog what the clicker means.

Timing is essential with clicker training you must click at the exact moment the correct behavior is beginning to be performed! This communicates to your dog what you like and what you want to continue to see!

Leash training steps
Leash training, like most dog obedience training is less problematic if we can break it down into straight forward, manageable steps.

First you will click and reward simply for introducing the leash/harness, and collar. Give your dog Leash Trainingample time to become accustomed to these tools before putting them on your dog. Soon, he will get excited once he sees them! Now, you may begin allowing your pooch to wear them around the house, increasing the wear time.

Keep your dog inside with you, during the beginning of training to help him be successful (training outside can be distracting), and click and reward every time he chooses to be near you while he wears the collar and leash. Also click and reward if he looks up at you, this is the foundation to getting his focus!

Training outside may be more frustrating because there are numerous distractions for you to compete with for your dog’s attention. Understand, from his point of view how much more difficult this task has now become, and don’t lose your patience; don’t drag him or allow him to drag you! Walk slowly and click and treat if he stays at your side, if he begins to pull, stop or change your direction then click and treat when he reaches your side again!

Dont Lose Your Cool!

Remain calm at all times, and utilize jackpots (more treats or better treats) when your dog accomplishes something that was difficult for him; i.e. not pulling you toward the neighbor dog! Jackpot for any eye contact or focus on you!

Keep training sessions short and FUN! You can train several times a day, but you don’t want to push you or your dog past the point of fun! Puppies, especially, have short little attention+ spans and if you insist on puppy training past the point of fun, usually around 5 minutes, your pup may start to dislike, and dread training!

Scheduling multiple training sessions throughout the day will help your dog learn more quickly because dogs like schedules and he will look forward with happy anticipation until you can go out again! I like training right before breakfast, lunch or dinner because my pups are hungry and pay more attention, and I can even use their kibble (food) for reward!


Before You Even Start Leash Training

I recommend teaching your dog to sit and stay prior to leash training! Having a reliable sit/stay will enable you to ask for this command if your dog starts pulling on the leash, this will help you refocus his mind and help him back to your side! It is also safer to have a dog that has a reliable sit/stay so that you are not pulled out in traffic while working together!
Leash training, like all dog training, requires immense amounts of patience on both your parts! But, the payoff will be a well-trained dog that all your friends envy, and a relationship of love and trust! So grab your clicker and a pocket full of treats and get out there! Have some fun together while learning valuable skills! When your dog has mastered the leash check out loose leash training!

Dog training...Condition Your Puppy to Wear a Collar and Leash

The first step in leash training is to get the pup used to a collar....teaching your dog good leash manners will keep you and your dog safe while you...


Getting your puppy comfortable with a collar and a leash can be like getting a child to accept lace or wool for the first time. Some acclimate without complaint, others who are more sensi- tive protest wildly. Your reactions should be non-eventful. Place each on for twenty-minute increments, follow- ing the below instructions until your puppy fully accepts each.

Collars and Leashes
COLLAR
The first time you put a collar on your puppy, he may not like it. He may stop, sit, and scratch or twist in the air in an attempt to free himself of the encumbrance. Don’t worry. Leave the collar on for twenty-minute periods throughout the day. Soon it will feel like part of his skin. Your puppy is going to grow fast, so check his collar frequently to prevent tightness. Make sure you’re able to slip two fingers comfortably between his neck and collar. If you select a harness for your puppy, the same rules apply. Harnesses can be harder to fit, so take your puppy to the pet store,
and ask a professional for assistance in finding one suited for your partic- ular puppy.

LEASH
Your puppy’s first leash should be light- weight and flexible. Let him drag it initially until he’s used to the weight behind him.Don’t worry if he picks up the leash and chews it; this is normal behavior. If he’s destroying the leash, provide a suitable alternative for him to chew, and spray the leash with Bitter Apple. Once your puppy is comfortable with its weight, condition him to walk with you.

1 Pick up the lead and follow him.
2 When he looks back at you, praise him, YES, and/or offer him a treat or toy. Continue to use
rewards to encourage his focus when you hold the leash.
3 Gradually put pressure on the leash as you follow him.
4 Using a treat cup (see page 42) and enthusiastic movements and praise, begin to step away
and encourage him to follow you. Use consistent words to teach your puppy to follow your
lead, such as LET’S GO!

Note: Remember the voice rule. Your puppy will want to follow your voice when it is moving away from him. Don’t yell at your puppy to follow you.


Once your puppy is confident on the leash inside, try it in increasingly more distracting environments, such as outside or with family or visitors.
Follow the same cycle as above—initially walk your puppy on a loose lead, highlighting each time he looks to you, using food or toy rewards;
progress slowly to greater pressure. As you encourage your puppy to fol- low you, use rewards and toys to sustain his interest in your direction.

Encourage him to follow you by throwing your voice in the opposite direction. Act like you’ve found a really neat treasure that you
want to share. Reward his cooperation. Ultimately, insist that your puppy follow you. Use food and toys to lead him initially.

วันจันทร์ที่ 30 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Choosing the Right Dog Bowl for Your Dog

..Dog Bowls..Choosing the right food bowl and water bowl for your canine companion can be just as important as choosing the right food.... information on how to help you select the right food and water bowl for your dog or cat: ...

Quote:http://EzineArticles.com By Misha DePerros

If you have a dog, then you are going to need 2 dog bowls. Purchasing a dog bowl is an important step in owning a dog. Your dog will be eating and drinking from these dishes every day, multiple times per day. In today's' market you can find a bowl that will fit your decorating styles, as well as your dogs' eating habits.

Choosing the Right Dog Bowl

The easiest way that I have found to find a new bowl for my dog, is to take her to the store and let her pick it out. It will be her dinner plate, so she needs to like it. I use the same trick for getting her new toys.

Ceramic Dog Bowls

Ceramic dog bowls can look very nice, and serve the purpose of being heavy enough for your dog not to spill their food on the ground. The problem with ceramic bowls is they sometimes contain decorative glazing, which can be toxic to dogs and sometimes humans. You should always ensure that your ceramic bowl is intended to be used as a food-safe dish. You should replace any cracked ceramic dog dish immediately. Trying to fix it will only prolong the inevitable cut on your dogs' mouth. Saving $10 is not worth your dogs' life.

Plastic Dog Bowls

Plastic Dog Food Bowls can make life easy and cheap, but as with anything else, there are also risks using these. First, the good points. Plastic dishes are dishwasher safe, easy to maintain, and can be purchased cheaply. Some dogs may be allergic to plastic bowls, so make sure that you know your animal. Plastic can also be a sponge for bacteria, dirt, odors, and other nasties that just cannot be washed out. Depending on your pets' style of eating/drinking, a plastic bowl may be knocked over easily, spilling food onto the floor.

Stainless Steel Dog Bowls

Stainless Steel Dog Food Bowls are generally thought of as the perfect dog bowl. They are lightweight, yet sturdy enough for big guys to not spill over. Stainless steel does not harbor any bacteria, so it makes it a perfectly sanitary dish for your dog to eat out of. These bowls will also last the lifetime of your dog, unless something unfortunate happens to the bowl.

Elevating Your Dogs' Bowls

Your dog will benefit from you raising their food dishes to a level height. Your dog will not have to exert effort to bend over and eat their food, as well as you not having to bend over so far to put more food in. You can buy a platform or tray for any size bowl you may have for your friend or you can be creative and use something that is the right height for your friend. Elevating the food dish will help in their digestion of the food and water, as it does not have to travel up to go back down.

Always keep your food bowls and your pets' mouth clean, and you will have a happy healthy dog.

Misha DePerros has lived with dogs her whole life. Nothing about dogs seems foreign to her. Misha's current best friend is a large Great Dane. Check out the Information she has collected about Dog Bowls.

Tips on Choosing Dog Food Bowls

..Choosing the right food bowl and water bowl for your canine companion can be just .....Tips on Choosing Dog Bowls - They say that dog is man's best friend. ...

http://www.petplace.com By: Dr. Debra Primovic

What should you look for when choosing a dog food bowl? Dog bowls are available in many colors and styles. Finding the bowl that's right for your pet should be easy if you stop to consider a few factors before you shop.

Desirable features to look for in a bowl includes that it should be easy to clean, dishwasher safe, tip or spill proof, durable and safe.

An ideal choice is a heavy stainless steel bowls with a rubber bottom and tapered sides are great choices. This bowl has some weight and a rubber bottom to avoid your pet being able to push it all over the floor or ground. The tapered sides encourage tip resistance. Stainless steel is both durable and easy to wash, dishwasher safe, and can not be chewed or broken.

Shopping Tips

Avoid light-weight plastic that can be chewed and moved. Avoid lightweight glass and pottery that can be broken.
Elevated feeders may be more "comfortable" for your pet as he ages.They are also are easier to sweep around and clean under which is especially usefully for messy eaters.
Narrow and deep feeders are ideal if you have a long-eared dog. This design allows your dog to drink without getting his ears in the water.
Automatic feeders offer controlled portions in a frequency that you choose. Most are battery operated. These are generally not recommended for puppies.
Bowl holders are good to prevent bowls from skidding or sliding around the floor.

Dog Food Bowls

..Dog Bowls - Water Dishes & Dog Food Bowls Dog bowls and dishes have come a long way. Boring bowls are the thing of the past. ...Get help choosing elevated dog bowls, automatic feeders and other dog bowl ...


http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles

Dog is human's best friend and one of the most lovely family pets. We consider pet dogs as family members, even as our own baby. We give everthing we think is good for them, big brand dog food, medical care, toys, not matter how expensive. But still, lots of dogs fail to accompany their beloved master for more than a decade. Renal failure, malnutrition, digestive system diseases, and so many other problems can take away our lovely dog before they get the chance to grow old. Why we spend so many time and money taking care our dog and end up like this ? Well, have you ever think about that you may literally poision your dog everyday by feeding them comercial dog food ? Unfortunately, that is the truth.

Comercial dog food manufactures, no matter how big the brand is, try every means to increase their profits. Instead of truly caring your dog, they may use slaughter house wastes, diseased animal carcasses contains chemicals and other low-nutritious ingredients to decrease costs. All of these are not groundless rumors. Andrew Lewis, author of the best selling book "Dog food secrets", did years of researches to find out the truth about pet food, after his dog died in its four.

After konwing all those dangers in comercial dog food, you probably want to try other things to feed your dog. You can find all you need in "Dog food secrets", such as essential nutrient that dogs need, various recipe easy to cook, nutritious and yammy for your pet. If you want to feed your dog with human foods, make sure you check out in list of fatal human food to dogs in the book first. There are also many information about medical care, nutrition, vaccinations, calories-control and even tips to teach you how to make heathy snacks.

Dog training...Teaching Food-Bowl and Toy Acceptance

... food in the dog food bowl is for the dog...... treats to your puppy's food bowl during mealtime to prevent food bowl aggression. ...

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

Dogs are not born with an innate concept of sharing. Without specific conditioning and training, they will never acquire it. Although some dogs will submit to a person’s interfer- ence while they’re eating or chewing a toy, most consider the intervention a nuisance; some dogs even become aggressive. It’s important to teach your dog to share at as young an age as possible. Let your dog know that your arrival is not an attack and that you’re there to congratulate her, not steal her prize.

Teaching Techniques
RECOGNIZE SPATIAL AGGRESSION

Dogs have five levels of aggression. The first two levels are
• Coveting—laying her head over the object;
• A short warning growl emanating from her throat.
By demonstrating aggression at these levels, your dog is letting you know that she does not want to be bothered and would prefer privacy when
eating, chewing, or playing with an object—this is known as spatial aggres- sion. She must learn to share if she is to live happily with people.


DISCOVER YOUR DOG’S RED ZONE

If your dog is showing any aggression, you need to determine her Red Zone: the closest distance you can stand to her before she gets uncom-
fortable. Let’s say that when you’re closer than three feet, she growls, but at three and a half feet she’s comfortable. Less than three and a half feet
is your dog’s Red Zone. Repeat the sequences described on the next page with the treat cup but stop, shake, treat, and reward just outside the zone. As your dog trusts
your presence, slowly move closer.

วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 26 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2554

More Puppy Obedience Training

..The first step to finding the right puppy obedience training or dog..Find out what you need to begin a dog obedience training program, ...


http://www.thedogtrainingclub.com (By Kate)

Puppy obedience training doesn’t have to be boring. In addition to the standard basic training commands – sit, stay, down, come, heel – you and your dog can have lots of fun working on more advanced training that focuses on working your dog’s individual talents. It will also help prevent problem behaviour.

Wasted Talents

Dogs which were originally bred to do a certain kind of work are likely to be specialists in that field – for example, collies love to herd, retrievers love to retrieve, terriers love to chase and dig and hounds love to track.

The problem is that in our modern society, dogs are seldom used for the purposes for which they were originally bred. And if you fail to give your dog a suitable replacement activity, he is likely to use his natural ‘talents’ in inappropriate and undesirable ways. Collies will often resort to chasing cyclists, joggers and children. Hounds will take off into the hills as soon as they are let off the leash. Terriers are likely to dig up your yard and Retrievers may steal objects or become mouthy or possessive.

Creating Replacement Activities

Fortunately, there are lots of alternative activities available for you and your dog that both of you should find rewarding and fun and which will satisfy your dogs natural talents. They are also a great way of doing your puppy obedience training and reinforcing the bond between you. Such activities include:

Agility

Agility can pretty much be likened to show-jumping for dogs. It’s great fun and gives your dog the opportunity to really run, jump and use his mind whilst improving your general control of your dog outside and off the leash.

Although you are more likely to see collies performing in agility trials on TV, agility is suitable for – and usually enjoyed by – all breeds of dog, even small ones. The only pre-condition is that your dog has reached physical maturity so that damage to growing bones and joints is avoided. The age at which physical maturity occurs varies from breed to breed, with large breeds taking the longest to mature. You should check with your vet before enrolling in a class to ensure that your dog is fit and ready.

Dancing With Dogs

This sport is becoming increasingly popular and is generally separated into two disciplines: heelwork to music and ‘freestyle’. Again, dancing will give your dog (and you) a great physical and mental workout and improve the rapport between you. Dancing is particularly well suited to lighter and more agile breeds of dog.

Free Tracking

Free tracking is particularly enjoyable for Retrievers and Hounds and is brilliant for owners who don’t have the time to join an organised group activity.

When you are out on your walk, lay a simple track by walking without your dog in a straight line over undisturbed ground for about 20 metres. Place something your dog really likes – a toy or some food – at the end of it and continue to walk for another 5 steps before retracing your steps back to your dog. Then encourage your dog to use his nose to find the treasure trove at the end.

Once your dog has the hang of this, you can build in more complex zig-zags into your trail to really test his nosework.

So there you have 4 puppy obedience training activities the will harness the power of your dog's natrual tallents in a positive way and avoid boredom and behavioral problems.

How to Train a Dog at Home Like a Professional Dog Trainer

..Some of the best dog training options include home dog training programs, ...How to Train a Dog at Home Like a Professional Dog Trainer....


If you're striving to raise and train a happy, healthy and well adjusted dog yourself at home - this website is for you.It is my goal to help you properly care for, socialize and train your dog in a positive, non-violent yet highly effective manner.

Please choose your dog training issue from the list below or to the left, and learn how to train your dog step-by-step using the very latest dog training techniques.Not Just "Dog Training" But A Complete Guide To Responsible Dog Ownership
Read on and you'll discover a huge collection of scientifically proven dog training information and tips used by professional dog trainers worldwide.

Having a dog in your life should provide you with great joy and companionship - not extra burden or an endless source of frustration, as is so often the case.This is what I personally consider to be crucial, and always strive for when training my own dogs:

To raise a well respected canine citizen. I want happy, involved, outgoing dogs who are valued and trusted members of the community.To build a genuinely strong owner-dog relationship based on trust, co-operation and well defined roles.To have confidence in, and control of my dogs in any situation - including around kids and other animals.

To work with my dog's natural drives and instincts, not against them.Absolutely no cruelty or harsh "old school" dog training techniques. I certainly don't believe you have to "break a dog's spirit" in the training process.

Clicker Training (Dog training)

...Free clicker training lessons for your dog.... Clicker training - Learn how to use a clicker to train your dog and deal with behavior problems...

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

A clicker is a hand-held object that makes a sharp sound when you depress its metal strip. The distinct sound captures your dog’s attention.The objective is to pair the sound of the clicker with a food reward. If your dog is not food-motivated, you can use a toy or a quick burst of attention to help him learn that the click is a positive sound. Food rewards are ideal so make the incentive strong. If your dog will work harder for a piece of meat than cereal, use it.


Introduce the Clicker

When doing the following exercise, do not speak. Let your dog focus on the noise of the clicker alone.
1 Line up ten bits of food. Your dog should be able to swallow each bit within two seconds.
2 Place the clicker behind your back or in your pocket, as the noise can be startling initially. Hold the treat in your other hand.
3 Click and treat in that order.
4 Finish the ten treats and end the interaction with attention or play.
5 Repeat the session until you can clearly see by your dog’s enthusiasm and his expectation of the food after the clicker sounds that he has made the connection.

Think of your clicker as a camera photographing moments you want to see again. Use it to mark good behavior, such as when your dog goes to the bathroom in the right place, comes when he is called, or releases a toy when asked. The clicker should not be used to encourage cooperation. If you want your dog to COME to you, for example, you use your clicker when he is at your side, not to get his attention.Throughout the book, I will suggest ways to use a clicker or a word marker like YES to mark cooperative behavior. The word YES should be said sharply, like the sound of the clicker, and can help your dog understand exactly what is expected of him. Here are three other ways that you may use the clicker or a word marker to help your dog understand what you’re teaching him.

SIT
As you use the techniques on page 79 to teach your dog to sit, use the clicker to mark the exact moment he moves into posi- tion. Reward him instantly with food. Good dog!

STAND STILL FOR GREETINGS OR ATTENTION
Many dogs jump when greeting family or company. It is a normal impulse to want to get close to a person’s face. With a clicker and food in hand, stand still and cover your face with folded arms if your dog is jumping at you (see chapter 11). When he stops and is calm, lower your arms, and then click and reward.

COME
Your first goal in chapter 6 will be to teach COME as a command of closeness. With your clicker and food in hand, say COME when your dog is near you. Encourage him to look up by sweeping your hands up to your eyes. Click and reward. Gradually extend the distance. Click and reward the instant your dog comes back to your side.

Housetraining Aids (Dog training tool)

..dog housetraining aids and related supplies for dogs at the lowest ...Some dog Housetraining Aids are very helpful in training your dog. ...

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

The project of housetraining your dog is straightforward once you decide on the location. A bell to alert you, material to highlight your dog’s potty, and a solution to mask the scent of an accident are all extras that enhance both his understanding and communication.

BELLS
Get your dog to ring a bell when he must go outside to go to the bathroom. Hang a set of bells by the door at your dog’s nose level. Each time you take him out, say OUTSIDE, stop at the door, and tap the bell with your fingertips. If after one week your dog is still not making the connection, lace the bell with a little peanut butter or yogurt ahead of time, and when you bring your dog up to the door, stop and see if he licks it. If not, show it to him. The moment he does lick it, open the door and take him outside.You can also use a bell to teach your dog to signal to come in.

WEE-WEE PADS
If your goal is paper training, you’ll need to designate specific areas in the main rooms you share with your dog. Eventually, you can phase down to one place, as outlined in chapter 10, but initially, you’ll just need to help your dog understand that he must eliminate on a specified absorbent surface. To this end, I recommend using white wee-wee pads and rolling up carpet until this habit is formed. You can purchase wee-wee pads through pet stores or catalogs, or in bulk at a pharmacy, where they are marketed as human inconti- nence pads.


NATURE’S MIRACLE
There are products on the market that can be used to mask the odor of a dog’s housetraining accidents. It’s important to eliminate this scent indoors, as dogs like to go to the bathroom in the same area repeatedly. Nature’s Miracle is the name of the original solution, although your pet store may carry other effective products. A 50-percent mixture of vinegar and water also works well.

Irreplaceable Extras
Several extras make the task of training your dog a fun and rewarding experience for both of you.These items will help you bridge the gap from confusion and chaos to understanding.

TREAT CUPS
There are several uses for a treat cup, all of which will increase your dog’s enthu- siasm for being with you. To make a treat cup, simply cut a hole in the lid of a container and fill the container halfway with your dog’s food, dried cereal, or a favorite snack. Shake the cup and treat your dog ten times in a row to help him connect the sound of the cup shaking with getting a treat.

SNACK PACKS
You can use any generic fanny pack for this purpose. It is simply a hip bag filled with your dog’s favorite treats/dry food. Wearing it gives you instant access to food rewards, and makes you your dog’s focal point. Your dog will return to you and do whatever behavior gets you to open that pouch! In turn, this lets you select the behavior you want your dog to repeat, while eliminating the rest by simply ignoring him. For example, if your goal is to have your dog sit when he wants a treat or attention, ignore every other behavior he might offer you such as pawing, whining, jumping, or barking. Simply pretend he’s not there until he sits politely. Then treat!


SPRAY-AWAY SHOOTERS
Spray-away shooters are meant to startle your dog, but they are not meant to be seen as coming from you. They are useful in correcting nipping, jumping, barking, stealing, and chewing habits. It is important not to spray your dog in the face angrily. Instead, hide the sprayer in your hand so that your dog won’t see it, and spray his legs or torso from behind him so he won’t know it’s coming from you. The three top rated shooters are:


BITTER APPLE
This distasteful solution can be sprayed on objects and clothing to deter nipping and chewing. Place several bottles around your home and spritz objects/people calmly as your dog is chewing/biting them. He will choose to stop chewing these objects/people on his own. In this instance it is not necessary to hide the bottle from your dog, but avoid getting involved. It is simply a cause-and-effect correc- tion that he will learn from on his own.

BREATH SPRAY
A small canister of breath spray fits neatly into a pocket or fanny pack and can be sprayed to deter mouthing or jumping. Never spray your dog in the face or eyes. Simply spray what he is biting, nipping, or jumping toward.

DIRECT STOP
This canister of citronella is more powerful than breath spray and can serve to startle your dog when he is barking or jumping on company, furniture, or coun- ters. You do not want him to see you spraying him. Do it from behind as detailed in the section, “Spray-away Shooters.”

Teaching Lead Dog training


.... Complete Guide To Teaching And Training Companion Dogs. ...... Out there in the dog training world, there are a number of dog ...


Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

A teaching lead is more than a leash.It’s a leash-belt combination that has five uses: it allows you to “wear your dog,” providing a hands-free system of walking him; it enables you to hold your dog with a hand loop, providing him six feet of freedom; and it works as a short-station, a long-station, and a cargo-containment lead. Once you learn how to use a teaching lead, it will help you communicate with your dog all day long.

Introduce the Teaching Lead

To use the hands-free teaching lead system, put the training collar on your dog and then secure the leash around your waist as if it were a belt.
1 Begin walking in an open room, yard, or driveway.
2 If your dog walks ahead of you, simply turn away from him, say LET’S GO, and walk in the opposite direction. Do this several times until he is choosing to follow you.

Now you can teach your dog how to behave in the house without fearing that he’ll bolt or get into mischief. You can also supervise his chewing,bathroom, and stealing habits. (See chapter 6 for more problem-solving ideas.) 3 As you walk through your home, give the leash a tug every once in a while to remind your dog to pay attention to you. If he’s not cooperating, go back to step 1.

Use the Teaching Lead to Teach Station Stays
By stationing your dog to an object, you can teach him how to stay still. It’s best to start doing this when you are in the room or nearby.
1 Select a spot at which to secure the leash, and put a bed there with toys on it for your dog to play with.
2 Take your dog to the bed, instruct him to SETTLE DOWN, and secure him with the leash.
3 Secure the end clip into the base hole to make the lead the shortest possible length.
4 If your dog can’t sit still, stay close to him until he is more comfortable with being confined.

TRADITIONAL LEASH
There’s a D ring on the teaching lead that you can use to secure one end clip to create a traditional six-foot leash. Once it’s connected, there is no difference between a teaching lead and another kind of leash. This is ideal when it’s time to let your dog go to the bathroom.

CAR CONTAINMENT
You can use the teaching lead to secure your dog to the head rest. Simply attach the clip to the end loop on the base ring and secure it around either object.


QUICK STATION
When you’re out and about with your dog, you have a traveling station lead to allow you to secure him to a tree or table in a pinch. Note: Never leave your dog unattended in public. Ask someone to watch him if you are alone, and never lose sight of him.

Leashes (Training Tools)

...Dog Training Equipment - Discover The Latest Tools And Accessories For Training Your Dog. ...From puppyhood to senior, dog collars and dog leashes make excellent training and safety tools..

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

A leash, or lead, gives you the ability to direct your dog without grabbing for him. It is a calm way to teach him and its use will give friends and family a way to be consistent without hysically han- dling him. Many leashes are available to you. The following descriptions tell you which leash is best to use in a given situation.

INDOOR DRAG LEAD
There are two drag leads that will help you teach your dog good manners and train him to respond to you. An indoor drag lead is a four-foot leash that attaches to your dog’s buckle/tag collar or his Gentle Leader. You use it when advised to interrupt problem behavior calmly. It prevents you from having to chase or jump at your dog in order to catch him.
OUTDOOR DRAG LEAD
An outdoor drag lead is a twenty-five- to fifty-foot rope that attaches to your dog’s buckle or tag collar. It enables distant corrections to problem behavior and aids you in teaching off-lead bedience. Purchase or make the lightest possible line so that it won’t interfere with your dog’s activities. A light cotton-nylon mesh is ideal: twenty-five feet for dogs under thirty pounds and fifty feet for large and fast-moving breeds.This long line is an ideal tool for working on distance control, especially with the WAIT-OK, DOWN, and COME commands.

HAND LEAD
When secured to your dog’s buckle collar, this short eight to twelve-inch leash reminds him that somebody is watching, while still giving him freedom to move about. A gentle reminder, the short attachment gives you the capacity to guide him subtly when his thoughts go astray. It can also be used for off-leash training exercises or secured to a seatbelt as a security system in the car.

FINGER LEAD
Like a hand lead, this short two-inch loop attached to your dog’s tag collar gives you easy access and quick control, especially for problem nipping and jumping.


RETRACTABLE LEASH
This leash is an ideal complement to working toward off-leash control and focus (see chapter 7). Once you accustom your dog to the pull of the retractable lead,it is ideal for reinforcing long-distance STAY and COME commands.

STATION LINE
This six- to ten-foot lead has a clip attached to either end. To use it outside, secure it to a tree or post and work on controlling your dog at a distance or helping him overcome separation anxiety.

วันอังคารที่ 24 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Dog Collar Selection Guide

Dog crates selection guide - which crate is right for your dog? Dog training collars...Dog collars selection depends greatly on the purpose of buying a dog ....DogSelection Leads To Training ... A Guide To Dog Training Collars ·... Training Collars — Proper


http://www.drsfostersmith.com Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff

There are many styles of dog collars to choose from depending on your dog's size and disposition, and your training need. For the majority of dogs, a traditional nylon or leather dog collar is sufficient. Other dog collars for specific situations are described below. This discussion does not include remote training collars.

Traditional Dog Collars: Traditional dog collars are available in a variety of styles, colors, and widths. They should ride high on your pet's neck, not loose so that it slides down near the top of his shoulder blades. Dog Collars should be snug with enough room to fit two fingers between your dog's neck and his collar. For your dog's safety, the collar should not be loose enough to slip over the pet's head. Collars should also not be so tight as to restrict breathing or cause coughing. Check collar size frequently on growing puppies. Use a tape measure to measure your pet's neck, then add on two to three inches.

Choose collar and lead width with hardware that matches your pet's size. Smaller, lightweight choices are for small dogs and puppies, and wider, more durable styles are for bigger, stronger pets.

Every collar you own should have a current nametag attached to it at all times.

Dog Harnesses: Harnesses, which go around the neck and around the shoulders behind the front legs, are recommended for dogs who have upper respiratory disease or diseases of the throat or trachea, such as a collapsed trachea. If a dog with a collar pulls on the leash, it places pressure on the throat and trachea, causing irritation and coughing. Harnesses relieve that pressure.

Halter-type Dog Collars will give you the best control over your dog. They give you control of your dog's head and when you have control of the dog's head, you have control of the dog. There are several brands of these halter-type collars including the Halti collar. These collars look more like a horse's halter, with a band going around the back of the head, and another around the nose. The leash snaps onto the collar under the chin. When you pull on the leash, the dog's head will either be pulled down or to the side - this makes it virtually impossible for the dog to move ahead or pull you forward.

Some people are hesitant to use the collar since they feel it looks more like a muzzle than a collar. You may have people ask you about the collar, but more often than not, when you are through explaining it, they will ask you where they can get one for their dog.

Chain-slip Dog Collars: Chain-slip collars, also called check chain or 'choke collars,' provide effective training and retraining tools when used correctly and on appropriate dogs. These collars are most often used for dogs that are strong-willed, pull when on a lead, or those that do not respond to training when wearing traditional collars.

If you plan to use a choke collar on your dog, have a trainer show you how to use it correctly. Correct usage involves a quick 'tug-and-release' action (as opposed to a steady pulling) that tells the pet a different behavior is desired. These collars should only be worn during training sessions, never in a crate, and avoided in pets with delicate tracheas, such as Yorkshire Terriers.

For correct sizing, measure your pet's neck and add 2-1/2"- 3". There is a right and wrong way to put a slip collar on a dog. To correctly place a collar on a dog, the top ring on a properly-looped collar forms a letter P when you stand in front of the dog and pull it snug. If it forms the number 9, it is on backward and may not release immediately as designed, which may cause discomfort or gagging.

Pronged Collars: Pronged Collars, also called pinch collars, contain blunt prongs that protrude inward from the links. Designed for only the most stubborn pullers, they are temporary training tools used to change behavior on dogs that do not respond to any other collar. Halter-type collars give you more control and are much less likely to harm your dog.

We have found that owners who know how to correctly train dogs rarely need these types of collars. Rather, they learned they were training their pet incorrectly, and were able to successfully train their dog using other collars after learning proper methods.

Training Collars (Dog Training)

... the proper length of a slip collar, measure the distance around your dog's neck and ... Ideally, your dog should have two collars: an adjustable nylon or ..... Measure your dog around the chest directly behind the legs--this is the girth. ...
Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

You use a training collar
when teaching your dog a new skill, such as walking on a leash or coming when called. Each type of training collar works differently; there is not one that is ideal for all dogs.The following descriptions will help you choose the one that is best suited for you and your dog.To fit your dog for a training collar, measure the circumference of his neck, just behind the ears.Add two inches and purchase that length.

Types of Collars

Traditional chain collar
When used properly, a chain collar is very effective, although it takes some coordination and timing to make it work. It is the sound of the chain near your dog’s ear that will teach him to avoid pulling, not his being choked. If you find yourself choking your dog when walking him on this collar, make another selection.There is a right and a wrong way to put on a chain collar. If you put it on backwards, it can catch and hurt your dog. To put the collar on, first slide one end of the chain through the other loop. Next, make the letter P with the chain and slide it over your dog’s head. The top ring should slide through, not bend over the other ring.


Martingale check chain

This collar is three-quarters flat nylon mesh and one-quarter slip collar. The dif-ference between a martingale and a check chain is that the martingale slip is made of nylon fabric and the check chain is one- quarter chain. The martingale and check chain collars are perfectly suited for long- necked breeds, like Greyhounds and Whippets, or calm dogs who simply need
a gentle reminder to behave.


Good dog collar
This collar is a plastic, blunter version of the original prong collar. You can take it apart by unsnapping any of the links. Simply fold between any two
links in an L shape and slide it out of the indented spaces. Position the collar so that the cord falls between your dog’s ears. When the collar is attached to a leash, simply pull back on it to create a “scruff shake” feel- ing. A scruff shake is what dogs do to each other to clarify who is in charge. This collar can be used to discourage pulling, jumping, crotch sniffing, nipping, and more. To fit your dog for a good dog collar, attach the collar around his neck and
add or remove links until it’s snug, but not tight.



No-pull harness

This harness controls the leg muscles associated with pulling. It actually prevents your dog from pulling you. Although it sounds like an ideal option, it rarely teaches your dog to walk with you unless the harness is on. To fit your dog, take measurements of his chest (across) and around his
rib cage (diameter). Bring these measurements to a local pet store and ask for help choosing the no-pull harness that’s best for you.



Head collar
A head collar has a mellowing influence, as it lies atop your dog’s nose and is secured on his neck behind his ears. These are two spots that dogs use to control one another, so a collar that puts pressure on those areas has value in calming dogs. Although a head collar looks like a muzzle, it
works more like a halter on a horse. Without interfering with a dog’s mouth, it enables a person who is less powerful than the dog to handle him with ease. It is a good choice when you’re starting to train your dog, as it conditions good behavior almost immediately.





Putting on a Head Collar

1 With the collar in hand, clip the neck section directly behind your dog’s ear and slide it so that it fits snugly. It should be watchband tight. Although it may
seem too tight at first, when positioned, the strap will lie on your dog’s jaw- bone and will not disrupt his breathing.

2 Unclip the neck strap and slide the nose loop over your dog’s nose into place, bringing the clip up until the loop is positioned just behind the dog’s
lips. When the neck section is secured, the two together should make a V shape, not an L.

3 Let your dog get accustomed to wearing the head collar a few times a day for twenty minutes each time. He may scratch or rub his nose initially, like a
child with new braces. Give him one to three days to get used to wearing the collar before clipping a leash to the ring located under his nose.

Measure Your Dog for a Collar or Harness (Training Tools)

...Use a tape measure to measure your pet's neck, then add on two to three inches. ... Chain-slip Dog Collars: ..... the proper length of a slip collar, measure the distance around your dog's neck and ... Ideally, your dog should have two collars: an adjustable nylon or ..

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson


When training your dog it is helpful to have a collar or harness that he will wear when you’re practicing. Depending on
your choice the collar will either help you manage him without resistance, or issue a discouraging correction when he
ignores your direction.
Your dog must wear identification tags whenever you leave the house.These tags should be placed on a buckle
collar or harness. Do not place them on a training collar; not only would they weigh it down, but they could get
caught and cause discomfort or choking.


Fit a Collar or Harness



To measure your dog for a neck collar, take a tape measure and wrap it around his neck behind his ears (a).
To measure for a harness, measure across his chest and around his rib cage (b).

A properly fitted collar allows you to comfortably slide two fingers between your dog’s neck and the collar. A snug but not tight fit is best.

Note: If you purchase a leather collar or harness, watch for stretching over time, and secure it increasingly tightly if necessary to prevent slippage. If you purchase a collar or harness made of a nylon web material, the dye may bleed when wet.To prevent this problem, soak it in the sink overnight.

วันจันทร์ที่ 23 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Teach Dog to Go Back - Dog Trick

...Learn how to teach your dog the Play Dead dog trick... Learn how to teach your dog to back up by joining our dog training community. ...

from http://gooddogtrainingadvice.com

Once in a while, you would want to have a nice sleep at night. But when your dog starts to wander around the house and disturbs everybody, the real problem arises.

Oftentimes, you will find your dog going in and out of your room or doing stuffs that causes disturbance not only to you but also to your neighbor. If you want to avoid these, you have to teach dog to go back to bed.

This training is very rewarding for dog owners who want to have a peaceful sleep at night, away from stress and hassle. Teaching your dog to go back to sleep, however, is not an easy task. If you want to know how to execute the training properly, consider the following points below.

To teach your dog to go back to bed, you will need to have the right equipment. Some of the things that you will need include mat, dog bed or crate, treats, and clicker (optional). Once you have all these items, you can now start the training.

At first, you have to place a mat on the floor. Every time your dog looks at the mat, say “yes”. Once he started looking at the mat directly, give him a treat then take a break. Do this until your dog has finally known that looking at the mat is important to get a treat.
Once your dog has gotten acquainted with the mat, it is the right time to let him stay on the bed. You can do this by sitting with the dog on the floor and guiding him to the mat. Do this until your dog understands what you try to say then give him a treat. Your dog shouldn’t move away from the mat until you said so.

Continue to train your dog every day. The more you train your dog, the more obedient he will be. But keep in mind that you can’t teach dog to go back to bed overnight. Patience is the key to a successful training. If you are patient enough to teach your dog, you can assure to have a peaceful sleep all night long.

It is also important to not hurt your dog throughout the training. Do not use force when you teach dog to go back. There is a process for training a puppy and that should be enough to teach him how to go back in bed.
I highly recommend that you check out the website below which contains the best dog training videos teaching your dog new tricks: rolling over, shaking a paw, play dead and many more amzing tricks.

Mats and Beds Training Tools

... training tool, giving your dog a boundary to follow the “stay” command...Pet training mat prevents dogs and cats from exploring off-limits areas ...


Dogs like to feel welcome and directed in each room and when they travel.A mat or bed can serve to direct them in your home and will be comforting when you visit or travel.

Mats/Beds

Give your dog a special place in each area of the house you spend time in so when he enters a room, he’ll know where to go. Pick a location that is close to where you’ll be in that room Help your dog get organized by placing all his toys and chews on his mat/bed. When you want him to settle down on the mat, instruct him to SETTLE DOWN and chew his BONE. Pet him when he cooperates; secure him to his bed area with a leash if he won’t settle down. To decide which bed is best for your dog, consider what makes him feel comfortable; many dogs are happy with a flat mat, which is easy to wash and transport. Help your dog with car travel by bringing along a favorite mat, or keep a special travel one in the car. This mat will help him identify his space. If you’re going on an overnight trip, bring the bedding with you to help your dog behave. When going to the veterinarian, bring the mat to put on the table. Doing so will make it a more pleasant experience for everyone.

Read Your Dog’s Postures

.. Dog body language is usually interpreted in terms of emotional states: happy, angry, aggressive etc...Knowing how to read your dog's body language is the key to understanding your dog, ..

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

Learning to read your dog’s postures may be easier than controlling your own. When trying to understand what your dog is experiencing, look to her ears, tail, mouth, body posture, and eyes.

EARS
• Rigid forward pitch = assertive, assertive and dominant posture
• Flat back = extreme fear
• Moving back to front = aware of surrounding sounds
• Angled back = submission, invitation to play
• Hanging loosely = relaxed
TAIL
• Arched high above the back = high alert, dominance
• Tucked under belly = fear, submission
• Just above rear end = alert but open and friendly
• Low carriage = cautious, submissive
• Fast wag above back = stimulated, dominant, preparing for a challenge
• Low wag between legs = Extreme fear, submission
• Sweeping wag just above rear end = open and friendly, curious and accepting

MOUTH
• Set jaw = snarl or sneer
• Lips pulled back = submission or fear
• Open face pant = welcoming, laugh- ter, play
• Toothy grin = smile

EYES

• Direct stare = challenge, dominance
• Averted glance = submission or cold shoulder
• Downward glance = submission

BODY POSTURES
• Stretch = relaxed
• Play bow = submissive and playful
• Weight shifted forward = dominant
• Weight shifted back = submissive
• Lifted hair on neck (called hackles) = aggressive or threatened
• A still, curled posture = passive submission
• Low, quickly wagging tail, lowered body = active submission
• Mounting = dominance
• Lifted paw = submission or an invitation to play

Dog-to-Dog Interactions

...Assessing Dog to Dog Interactions.... all interactions between your. new dog and resident ...

Quote :Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson

For a quick lesson in Doglish, watch two dogs together, preferably around the same age. If they are already friends, they will have a preestablished pattern of play and interaction. If they have not met, introduce them in neutral territory.First, watch their eyes. Who is looking to whom? One should look to the other and follow her lead. Next, check out their body language. Relaxed poses say that all is well. If the dogs are tense, it is because they are trying to determine who should be in charge. The one who rolls over or crouches is saying, “You can be the leader.” This is known as a submissive posture. Notice that the leader dog often puts her head or paws on top of the other’s back. Some dogs are more vocal than others. Assertive growls and barks are another way to convey leadership, whereas playful yelps call out submission. Short, quick barks are often directional.

วันอาทิตย์ที่ 22 พฤษภาคม พ.ศ. 2554

Owners seek to understand dogs

...dog owners would have laughed at the mere mention of the ... dog owners seek advice of canine experts.....

By Sean McGee,http://www.must-love-dogs.net

Sherborn -- Bryna Davidow is forced to pause in the middle of her dog communication presentation, once again, as her own dog, Teddy, wanders away from the audience and down the hall in the basement of Sherborn’s public library. These escapes almost seem staged, however, as Teddy obediently, albeit not expediently, ambles back into view whenever Davidow calls him.

This past Thursday, March 20, Davidow, the owner and proprietor of two dog-related businesses, gave her “Doglish” lecture to a sizable, eager crowd of current and putative pet-owners. The lecture, attended by young and old animal lovers alike, covered a number of disparate topics involved with learning to become a better communicator with one’s dog, or dogs, as may be the case.

Davidow first had the idea of researching and presenting on dog and owner interaction while she was studying human communications in graduate school. A self-described pet-lover for life, she pursued her interest, gaining a plethora of dog-related knowledge over the years.

“I’ve always been a pet person; I had the opportunity to start my own business and I thought it would be fun,” she said.

Four years ago she did just that, creating a dog-walking, pet-sitting and dog-training venture called “Must Love Dogs.” While training, walking and sitting make up a large portion of the business, she gives lectures at various locations in MetroWest throughout the year. The bulk of the lecture focuses on paying more attention to one’s dog, being more patient with it and better reading its body language; thus, in turn, allowing for more control over the pet. For example, she noted that many people with dogs don’t know that when their dog turns its head away, or won’t look at its owner, it is trying to send a calming signal, such as “stop shouting at me.”

“People need to be more understanding [of their dogs],” she said. “They want non-natural canine behavior,” yet simultaneously they don’t realize that “dogs are always talking to us, they’re always telling us something [about what they need]” through body language.

“The average pet owner doesn’t get into this kind of detail, said Davidow. “By offering these lectures, I hope to make relationships between pet owners and their pets better.”

In a similar vein, Davidow launched her second business this past October, “MetroWestDog.com,” a Web site offering animal owners connections with local pet-oriented businesses and services.

Do You Know What Your Dog Is Trying To Tell You?

... on how to evaluate your dog''s body language and understand ...Learning to read my dogs' body language and gaining an awareness of how they ..Read your dog's body language....


We all know that dogs cannot speak or even think like a human but they are very capable of getting through to you what they wish you to know.

Everyone knows what your dog means when you are enjoying a meal and he sits there staring at you with a sad, neglected look, drooling all over the carpet… "Please, I haven't eaten anything for a week at least." We avoid this by feeding our dog first and then refusing his pleas. He will try this sometimes with strangers but I just have to say "No begging." He will then take a big gulp, hang his head in shame and wander off somewhere to lie down.

We have a Rottweiler called Killer. The reason for this name is that we live in a house in Indonesia that is somewhat remote and the neighbours, knowing the dog's name, are somewhat loathe to bother us.

Killer is coming up to about two years now. He of course has learned the usual doggy instruction names like no, sit, stay, speak, out, fetch, down, roll over, heel etc, as well as the ones he likes like walk, food, chicken (his favourite), kitty, play, ball, bone, stick. He also knows all the names of the family members and a few friends. Apart from names, he has learned that when we get dressed, we are going out so he waits in anticipation to see whether he is coming with us or he hears the dreaded word "stay." He is also rather good at understanding things. He somehow manages to put two unrelated words together. For instance, he knows the name of my wife, "Yuyun" and also the word "walk." When he asks me to take him out for a walk and I am busy, I can say "Yuyun walk." He will then leave me and go and look for her and lead her to the door.

It is a struggle training him as Yuyun still thinks that he is that little bundle of fur she arrived home with a couple of years ago and she continues to spoil him to death. I try to explain to her that dogs are pack animals and need to have a leader and that, if he keeps getting his own way, he will think that HE is the leader but all this falls on deaf ears.

5 am every morning on the nose, Killer give ME the nose, instructing me to stagger out of bed and let him out. I must explain that here in Indonesia which is a Moslem country the people here are generally scared of any dog and totally petrified of a large one like ours. Thus I am unable to just open the door and let him run around but rather have to accompany him. So, I get taken for an early morning walk while my beloved wife whose "baby" this is, continues sleeping.

After sniffing around the neighbourhood for twenty minutes, marking his territory, I am allowed to return home but not to sleep. Oh no. It is now play time! There are various games that Killer enjoys. One is having me chase him around the house. When he wants to do this, he picks up some object say a bone or a rag and approaches me growling, defying me to take it away from him. When I make a move, he will back up waiting for me to make a grab for the object at which time he will take off running, glancing over his shoulder to make sure that I am following. We play this game until I am out of breath which, at 5.30 am, does not take too long.

Another game that he likes is for me to shut him in the bedroom while I take his ball and hide it somewhere in the house. Doesn't matter where it is, he will eventually come up with it. He starts off by looking in all the obvious places and only when that doesn't work he sticks his nose in the air and commences a serious search. In order to inform me that this is the game that he has selected, he will go to one of the difficult places that has been selected in the past, like a closed drawer, sniff at it, bark and then stare at me longingly. He will keep on repeating these actions until I give in and produce the ball.

Sometimes we take him out to the park which is just a few metres from the house. He likes for Yuyun to run to the other side of the field while I instruct him to sit and stay. He keeps his beady eye on the wife until she is almost out of site at which time I say "Get Yuyun!" Off he goes at full speed, completely freaking out any people who happen to be playing or walking in the park and who think that Killer is about to attack her and maul her to death.

Whenever Killer wants to go out he will bark and then run back and forth between the door and me. If it is an emergency he will whine. If he is hungry he will run over to his bowel, stare at it, then run over to the food bag and stare at that and then stare at me. If I ignore him he will bark to get my attention and go through the process again. The other day, Yuyun picked up one of his bones and placed it on top of the wall outside the house. A few hours later Killer trotted outside for something, looked up and spotted the bone. He came back into the house looking for me and instructed me to follow him by barking and backing up to the door. Once outside, he looked up at the bone and then at me. I didn't even know that it was there so it took a few seconds to sink in what he was trying to tell me.

We live in a rather large house with about twelve rooms. Often I had to ask my wife something and not wanting to shout, ended up searching all the rooms inevitably finding her in the last one. Now I just call the dog and say "Find Yuyun." After he takes off, I just wait for his bark and then know where the wife is. Dogs do have their uses.

If, when walking up to Killer, he rolls over onto his back, he is telling me to scratch his belly. Doesn't matter what else is going on in the house, belly scratching supersedes all and killer remains in a euphoric state until I stop.

If I say something to him that he does not understand, he will cock his head to one side telling me. "I haven't a clue what you are talking about." Or, if it is something that he thinks sounds too good to be true, he will wait for confirmation before getting too excited.

Whenever I hug and kiss my wife, Killer will stare at us jealously. I know exactly what he is thinking. "Hey, that's my mother you are messing with."

So there you are. I am sure that we understand most of what our dog is trying to tell us and, with a little patience, you can get to understand yours also.

From http://www.articlesbase.com

Learning to Speak Doglish Body Language

..training plan, and speak Doglish. Read your dog's body language. Communicate with your dog ...Dogs communicate mostly by body language, through movement of their tails, ears,..

What is your dog trying to tell you
Quote:Dog Training by Sarah Hodgson
Your dog responds to body language a lot like you do. A calm, confident posture reflects confidence and demands respect. A bent, lowered posture conveys either fear or insecurity. Frantic flailing conveys chaos or play.When you’re with your dog, make sure that your body language reflects your intentions. If you are training or trying to control her, stand tall and relaxed. Your dog will respect you if you maintain your dignity.
Note: If you have children, teach them to stand tall when giving the dog directions.Upright positions are confident poses; bending over is often perceived as playful.Refer to this posture as the Peacock Position for easy reference.

If you’re playing with your dog or snuggling affectionately, you may get down to your dog’s level. If she gets too excited or starts to mouth you in play, however, stand upright to remind your dog of your size and presence.In addition to your posture, your dog is aware of where you stand in rela- tion to her. If you’re in front, you’re the leader. If you are standing behind, you are seen as the follower. Take notice of this when your dog is excited
or you’re walking her in an unfamiliar area. If you are ahead of her, she will be calmer: you’re in the position of leader, guardian, and protector. If not, she will naturally assume that role and may become aggressive or hyper.

Dogs use the sound of their voices to communicate. A high-pitched whine signals intimacy or fear, a flat bark is directional, and a loud growl or bark is often a warning or an invitation to play.Similarly, your dog responds to the tone of your voice. Confident direc- tional sounds will get her attention and get her in the habit of looking to you for direction. Think of your commands as short, quick, directional barks.

Soft, loving tones and high-pitched squeals are best used to reward your dog rather than direct her. Dogs translate high-pitched or excited tones as play tones or fearful whimpers. Save these tones for play periods or loving attention.Yelling is like barking to a dog. It is uncommon for one dog to charge another and bark repetitively in her face unless the dog is psychotic. It is especially confusing when you do it, since you are the person your dog
wants to turn to when she feels threatened. Don’t yell at your dog. It will not help in training her or strengthening your relationship. Many dogs look afraid when shouted at, but this is not understanding; it is fear.

Your dog responds to the tone of your voice, not to the actual words. Once you repeat a command many times, she will respond to the sound of the word and understand how to react when she hears it. The direction of your voice is also important. If you stare at your dog and give her commands repetitively, she may feel overwhelmed. When your dog is exercising or playing, she won’t be watching you so closely. When you give commands, either turn your body in the opposite direction or tilt your head upward. This will pique her curiosity, and she will look to you faster.